It Ain't Over...Till It's Over

I refuse to accept that it's finished. Summer, that is. Technically, there's still a week left. The weather here in the Northeast continues to be beautifully mild--no reason to stop grilling now. One last time to barbecue my favorite fish. I've cooked branzino with you before, but this fish dish bears repeating. Now (while I still can), I'm grilling it whole and pairing the fish with a savory relish that utilizes some of those lovely preserved lemons you may still have in your fridge. A combination of crunchy celery, salty green olives, pungent garlic and the tart rind of preserved lemons makes for a tasty condiment that adds a real kick to the tender succulent flesh of the fish. Soon enough, I'll be ready for slow braised stews and hearty soups. But--for now--shine on summer sun.

Grilled Branzino with

Pickled Lemon Olive Relish

Branzino, also known as Mediterranean sea bass, has tender flesh which is deliciously mild. It is the perfect foil for this taste bud tingling condiment, which has a fragrant herbaceous hit of fresh parsley. Begin making this meal by tossing together the ingredients for the Preserved Lemon Olive Relish; the longer they stand together to allow their flavors to meld, the better. Finely mince the rinds of 2 to 3 preserved lemons, and toss with minced fresh parsley leaves in a small bowl.

Peel and mince 3 large garlic cloves and add to the bowl. Finely chop celery stalks. Pit and chop the flesh of large green olives. Toss with the other ingredients in the bowl. Add the juice of a lemon, extra virgin olive oil, kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir, taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Let stand until ready to use.

Ask your fishmonger to scale and gut the branzino, then butterfly it, leaving the head and tail intact. Using the edge of a sharp knife, slice 2 to 3 slits in the flesh of the branzino; flip the fish over and slit them again. Stuff the slits on each side with a sprigs of fresh oregano and thin slices of lemon. Season the cavity of the fish with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, and fill with extra sprigs of oregano and slices of lemon.

Hinged grill baskets are wonderful for grilling whole fish and get lots of use around here; if you don't have them, you can grill the fish directly on the grates of your barbecue. If using the baskets, be sure to well oil the insides of the grates so that the fish won't stick. Prepare your grill, either charcoal or gas, to medium heat. Place the fish on the grill and cook, turning once, for about 8 to 10 minutes on each side.

Open the fish and remove the oregano and lemon slices. Spoon the preserved lemon olive relish over the filleted fish and cut into portions. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and serve with a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc.

Serves 4:

2 branzino, 3 to 4 pounds total

2 lemons, thinly sliced

10 sprigs fresh oregano

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

extra virgin olive oil

Preserved Lemon Olive Relish

2 to 3 preserved lemons, pulp removed, rind minced

1/4 cup parsley leaves, minced

3 large garlic cloves, minced

2 celery stalks, finely chopped

10 to 12 large green olives, pitted and chopped

juice of 1 lemon

3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper