Rhubarb's Swan Song

My obsession with rhubarb continues--it's like an itch I can't stop scratching.  Am I verging on rhubarb overload? Perhaps. But we only live once and, since springtime rhubarb is only available once a year, we gotta love it while we can. When I saw this recipe in Bon Appétit, I could hardly be contained. Instantly enamored with the combo of cool, creamy custard and sweet-tart jelly, it went to the top of my "to cook" list. This is the perfect finale to rhubarb season.

Buttermilk Panna Cotta

with

Strawberry Rhubarb Jelly

Panna cotta is Italian for cooked cream and, while, this dessert is a bit rich, the buttermilk and crème fraîche add nice tang to the custard. Strawberry and rhubarb jelly is simple to make and provides tart contrast. Though not complicated, the recipe does take some time to put together, which makes it a perfect prepare-ahead dessert--great for entertaining. And if you compose them in cute little mason jars like these, they can be sealed to keep well in your fridge for a few days.

Knox powdered gelatin is the key ingredient here--it's available in the bakery aisle of your market. One envelope will be enough for both parts of this recipe. Sprinkle 1 1/4 teaspoons gelatin over 1/4 cup cold water in a small bowl. Let stand until gelatin is soft, about 10 minutes.

In a small saucepan, combine cream, sugar and kosher salt. Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds using the edge of a knife. Add seeds and split bean to the pan. 

Gently bring the cream mixture to a simmer, then stir in the softened gelatin until it is dissolved. Turn off the heat and let mixture cool.

Remove the split vanilla bean and whisk buttermilk and crème fraîche into the cream. Use a ladle to distribute the Panna Cotta into mason jars or dessert glasses--about 1/2 cup  in each. Cover and place in the refrigerator to set, at least 2 hours.

Meanwhile, make the Strawberry Rhubarb Jelly. In a medium heatproof bowl, combine the strawberries and 2 1/2 cups of the thinly sliced rhubarb; toss with sugar.

Securely cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place over a pan of simmering water and steam, without stirring, for about 45 minutes, until fruit is pale and soft.

Pour the fruit mixture into a fine strainer set over a measuring cup. Let the juices drain through naturally--don't press on the solids or the jelly will be cloudy. If necessary, add water to the liquid until it measures 1 cup.

In a small bowl, sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of gelatin over 1/4 cup cold water; soften for 10 minutes. Pour the strawberry rhubarb juices into a small saucepan and bring to a boil. 

Add the other 1/2 cup of thinly sliced rhubarb and cook until tender, about 3 or 4 minutes. Remove from heat. Add the softened gelatin into the jelly and stir until dissolved. 

Place mixture in a small bowl to cool. If you want to speed this step up, place that bowl carefully on top of a larger bowl of ice water and stir occasionally. When completely cool, top each Panna Cotta with the jelly, dividing evenly. 

Place back in the refrigerator to set, about 2 to 4 hours, and up to 3 days. Unscrew and enjoy!

Adapted from April Bloomfield/Bon Appétit

Makes 8 Servings:

8 6-8 ounce mason jars or dessert glasses

Buttermilk Panna Cotta:

1 1/4 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

1/4 cup cold water

1 1/4 cups heavy cream

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 vanilla bean

1 1/4 cups buttermilk

1 cup crème fraîche

Strawberry Rhubarb Jelly:

1 cup strawberries, hulled and halved

3/4 pound rhubarb, thinly sliced (about 3 cups), divided

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon unflavored gelatin

1/4 cup cold water

Expanding My Repertoire

I pride myself on the fact that I exposed my kids to many cuisines growing up. Italian, French, Spanish, Mexican, Moroccan and Asian were all properly and frequently represented. And, as their tastebuds matured, they were open to experiencing more and more. But, there was one cuisine that never crossed my kitchen door: Indian. Having had a bad curry incident early on, I steered clear of that spicy cookery. Fast forward years later and my now grown kids have both simultaneously discovered and fallen in love with Indian cooking on their own. I feel a motherly pang of guilt--how could I have deprived them? This particular dish has quickly become one of my daughter's favorites. Since she's back from school for the summer, I was determined to recreate it at home for her. It's the least I can do to make it up to her and--surprise, surprise--I love it, too!

Indian Butter Chicken

with

 Cucumber Tomato Raita

I think it's safe to assume that a recipe called Butter Chicken is gonna be rich. Usually made with an abundance of butter and cream, it just doesn't fit the way we eat anymore. So I made some adjustments and offer here two options: low fat and lower fat, depending on the yogurt you choose to use. While there's no trade-off in flavor, there's a bit of trade-off in texture--the higher the fat, the creamier the sauce. Either way, this is a piquant stew with lots of fragrant spices and aromatics; tomato purée lends body to the sauce and Greek yogurt adds tang. Cucumber Tomato Raita is a creamy, cool accompaniment. A ton of complex flavor from this simply prepared dish.

The chicken chunks are first tenderized in a yogurt marinade, the components of which will later stir into and flavor the sauce. I like to use a mortar and pestle to blend the spices with the aromatics; if you don't have one, you can mix this up in a mini processor, too. In the mortar, combine grated ginger, garlic, chili flakes and garam masala. Garam masala, an Indian spice blend of cardamon, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin and black pepper, is available at Whole Foods or other specialty markets. Use the pestle (or processor) to mash everything together.

Place yogurt in a medium bowl and combine with the blended spices. Stir in lime juice and toss with the chicken which has been cut into 1 inch chunks. Place in the refrigerator to marinate for at least an hour and up to overnight.

Make the sauce: in a large sauté pan, melt two tablespoons butter (the only butter in this recipe) over medium to medium-low heat. Cook the chopped red onion for 2 minutes until it softens. Add the spices: cumin, garam masala, sugar, chili flakes, turmeric and kosher salt, and stir for about a minute until fragrant. 

I prefer to use Italian tomato purée that comes in a jar--it has a fresher taste than the canned stuff. Pour the purée and water into the pan and stir. Bring to a simmer; cook for 2 minutes. 

Add the chicken with its marinade to the sauce; stir to incorporate. Adjust the heat to maintain a simmer and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until chicken is cooked through.

Make the Cucumber Tomato Raita: place the grated cucumber and finely diced tomato in a strainer set over a small bowl. Sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt; let drain for 20 minutes.

Press the cucumber tomato mixture to remove any extra moisture, then place in a small bowl. Combine with yogurt, cumin, finely chopped serrano chili, chopped mint and lime juice. Set aside. Taste and adjust seasoning before serving.

To finish the chicken, add 1/4 to 1/2 cup yogurt to the sauce to lighten it. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more kosher salt if needed. 

Platter the Butter Chicken with rice and garnish with cilantro leaves. Serve the Raita and warm naan (Indian flatbread) alongside. Perfect with a frosty brew...a la sature!

Serves 6:

Marinade:

2 inch piece of ginger, peeled and grated
3 to 4 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon red chili flakes
1 teaspoon garam masala
1/2 cup 0% or 2% Greek yogurt*
2 tablespoons lime juice (about 1 lime)

1 3/4 pounds chicken breast

Sauce:

2 tablespoons butter
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon cumin
1 tablespoon garam masala
1 tablespoon raw or granulated sugar
1 teaspoon red chili flakes
1 teaspoon turmeric
kosher salt
1 1/2 cups tomato purée
1/2 cup water
1/4 to 1/2 cup 0% or 2% Greek yogurt*

Cucumber Tomato Raita:
Adapted from David Rosengarten/Food & Wine

1/2 hothouse cucumber, peeled and grated
1 medium plum tomato, seeded and finely diced
kosher salt
1 cup 0% or 2% Greek yogurt*
1 small serrano chili, seeded and minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1/4 teaspoon cumin
1 tablespoon lime juice

cilantro leaves for garnish
steamed jasmine or basmati rice
warm naan

*Note: One pint size container of Greek yogurt works for this entire recipe--I like to use Fage.

A Case of Mistaken Identity

Ah, rhubarb. So misunderstood. Once used for medicinal purposes in ancient China, today it's a popular component in pies, crisps and compotes. But you may not know that rhubarb is actually a vegetable. An incredibly tart vegetable, which explains why these ruby red stalks benefit greatly from being stewed with sweetener. To honor its true identity, while respecting its limitations, I'm featuring it here in a more savory context. Rhubarb, tossed with honey, is simply roasted to render it tender. Those rosy chunks are then beautifully showcased in a composed salad of bitter and peppery greens, nutty walnuts, and soft and creamy blue cheese...no existential crisis here.

Roasted Rhubarb Salad

There's a real juxtaposition of flavors, textures and colors in this salad. For the greens, I used my favorite peppery arugula and pretty purple watercress I found at Whole Foods for a bitter bite. Toasted walnut halves add crunch, mild and sweet gorgonzola dolce adds a creamy component which all plays very nicely with the sweet-tart and tender roasted rhubarb. A simple balsamic vinaigrette made with walnut oil brings it all home.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. When choosing rhubarb at the market, make sure the stalks are a nice ruby color and firm/crisp, not rubbery. Trim the ends off the stalks and then chop into 2 inch lengths. Toss with the honey and lay out on a parchment lined baking sheet.

Place the rhubarb in the upper third of the oven to roast for 5 to 8 minutes, until soft; let cool.

Place the walnut halves on a small baking sheet and toast in the oven for 5 minutes, until golden. 

Properly washed and dried greens can make all the difference in a well-dressed salad. Lettuce should be rinsed to remove any grit and then dried well so that the dressing will adhere to its leaves. A good salad spinner is the right tool for the job: fill the bowl about two-thirds with cool water. Use your fingers to swish the greens in the water and then let them rest for a few minutes--the sand and grit will sink to the bottom of the bowl.

Carefully lift the greens from the water and place them in the colander part of the spinner. Dump the water from the bowl, place the colander inside, cover and give it a good spin to dry. If there's time before serving, I also like to place a paper towel on top of the greens, cover the spinner and place it in the fridge to crisp.

Walnut oil has a lovely toasty flavor and highlights the nuts in this salad--if you don't have it, just use good quality olive oil. Make the dressing: in a small bowl or pyrex measuring cup, whisk together balsamic vinegar, kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and walnut oil.

Place the greens in a large salad bowl and toss with the dressing until lightly coated. Top with the toasted walnuts and crumbled gorgonzola cheese. Individually plate the salad and top each serving with several pieces of the roasted rhubarb.

Adapted from Martha Stewart

Serves 4:

3/4 pound rhubarb

1/4 cup honey

1 large bunch arugula

1 bunch watercress

1/2 cup walnut halves

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup walnut oil

1/4 pound gorgonzola dolce, crumbled

Happy Happy Joy Joy

It doesn't take much to make me happy. The company of good friends, a yummy bottle of wine, a delicious and creatively prepared meal. I was lucky to enjoy all of that in spades this weekend with multiple outings. And on Sunday, when the dust had settled, I was inspired to put my apron back on and get cracking in the kitchen again. I was particularly excited to cook this. Recently featured in the April issue of Bon Appétit, this recipe had my name written all over it. Creamy risotto chock-full of bright and flavorful veggies topped with--one of my favorite things!--a poached egg. It's a bowl just bursting with Spring.

Spring Vegetable Risotto

with Poached Egg

Brimming with umami savoriness, this risotto is at once light and sumptuous. The rice is packed with fresh vegetables of the Spring variety: leeks and fennel, peas and mushrooms, arugula for peppery bite. Chopped chives add herbaceousness, Italian pecorino adds saltiness. The runny yolk of the poached egg oozes into the rice to make a sauce--this dish is over the top!

Some of you may think risotto is too complicated to tackle, but nothing could be farther from the truth. The technique is simple and straight forward: the rice is coated with fat in the pan and then slowly absorbs liquid (usually a combo of wine and stock) until it reaches al dente doneness. Yes, there's stirring involved, but in no way are you chained to the pan. Because this recipe has many components, I recommend that you prep everything before you get started. Begin with the peas.

As usual, I've put my own spin on this recipe. Instead of fava beans, which are a lot of work to shell, I'm going with peas, fresh sweet peas picked from the pod. In a pinch, you could use frozen, but this dish is all about fresh--use fresh peas whenever possible. You'll need about 2 pounds of pods to equal 2 cups of peas. In a saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the peas for just one minute then place in an ice water bath to shock. Drain and set aside in a bowl.

Poaching eggs can be a nerve-racking task, but this simple method allows you to get it done in advance. Fill a skillet with salted water and heat to barely a simmer. Add distilled white vinegar--it helps to firm the whites. Crack each egg into a small bowl and then gently slip it into the pan; poach the eggs three at a time. Cook for 3 minutes, until the whites are set, but the yolk is still runny. Use a slotted spoon to place the eggs into a bowl of ice water and set aside.

Instead of chanterelle mushrooms (which were nowhere to be found), I used a mixed variety of exotic mushrooms: delicate white beech, brown hon-shemeji, nutty and meaty trumpet royale. Substitute whatever you can find--cremini or shiitake would work well. In a wide saucepan or pot over medium heat, melt one tablespoon of butter. Add the mushrooms, stir and sauté until golden for 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and add to the reserved bowl of peas.

Add olive oil and the other tablespoon of butter to the pan and stir in the chopped leeks, fennel and garlic. Sauté for 4 to 5 minutes until softened, stirring often. 

In a small saucepan, heat the chicken stock to simmering on a neighboring burner. To easily convert this dish to vegetarian, use vegetable stock instead. Add the arborio rice to the pan with the vegetables and stir to coat for 2 minutes.

Pour in the white wine and adjust the heat to a simmer. Stir the rice and veggies until the wine is almost completely absorbed.

Begin adding ladles of the stock, about 1 cup at a time. Stir frequently; as each cupful is almost absorbed, add another. You should adjust the heat under the pan so that it maintains a rapid simmer. After about 20 minutes, taste the rice--it should be tender but still have some bite.

The original recipe called for spinach, but I opted for arugula instead--can't get enough of that peppery bite. Add the torn leaves to the rice and toss to incorporate until they're wilted.

Mix in sour cream, or crème fraîche if you have it. Add the grated cheese--I used Italian Fulvi Romano, a variety that is not as hard or salty as traditional Pecorino. Stir until melted.

Add the chopped chives to the rice, then mix in the peas and mushrooms; season with kosher salt and lots of cracked black pepper to taste.

Before serving, reheat the skillet of water and warm the poached eggs for just a minute. Spoon the risotto into large shallow bowls, then top each with a poached egg, shavings of Pecorino, and some more chives. Happy May Day!

Adapted from Bon Appétit

Serves 6:

2 cups shelled peas, preferably fresh
1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
6 fresh extra large eggs, preferably organic
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1/4 pound exotic mushrooms, trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 leeks, whites and pale green parts chopped
1 small fennel bulb, cored and chopped
2 cups arborio rice
1 cup dry white wine
6 to 8 cups chicken or vegetable stock, preferably homemade
1 bunch arugula, washed and leaves torn
2 tablespoons sour cream or crème fraîche
1 1/2 cups grated Pecorino cheese, plus shavings for garnish
1/4 cup roughly chopped chives, plus more for garnish
kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Creamy Consolation

I'm still reeling from the events of last week. My daughter goes to school in Boston, a mere five blocks from the site of the first bombing. Thankfully, though she didn't have classes that day, she stayed in her dorm to study. But my heart was in my throat for days after as I waited for the other shoe to drop. I'm sure it was the same for every parent who has a child at school in Boston, or anyone--everyone--with family or friends in that beautiful city. It was a harrowing time and, while we breathe a sigh of relief for now, we also grieve for the families of those lost or injured in that senseless tragedy. I think we've all earned a little indulgence, a bit of comfort to soothe our stressed souls. This creamy sweet treat, simple to make and delicious to eat, fits that bill nicely. Be safe, everyone.

Rhubarb Ginger Fool

Fool, a cousin of trifle, is a traditional English dessert which dates back to the 1500's. A study in simplicity, it's just fruit purée combined with whipped cream. Yes, it's decadent, but we deserve it. The beauty is, it lends itself to many creative variations. Trying to will Spring on, I dove into the rhubarb patch this week and came up with this stunner. Rhubarb, that rosy red stalk that looks like celery, is tantalizingly tart. I dissolve it into a tender stew, simmered with fresh orange and crystallized ginger. A quick whir in the blender, a slight chill in the fridge, it's then layered with a lighter blend of fluffy whipped cream and tangy Greek yogurt. Totally worth every calorie.

If your rhubarb stalks are thick, as mine were, slice them first in half lengthwise and then chop into one inch pieces. 

Place the pieces in a saucepan and add orange zest, orange juice, crystallized ginger, and sugar. Give it a quick stir and bring to a boil over medium heat. 

Turn the heat down so that the mixture maintains a rapid simmer and cover. Cook for 10 minutes.

Strain the rhubarb mixture in a sieve placed over a bowl to separate liquid from solids. Add the rhubarb solids and half the liquid to a blender or food processor. Blend until fine, then chill the purée and the reserved liquid for at least 15 minutes. 

Using a hand or stand mixer, whip the heavy cream with sugar until it forms soft peaks. Fold in Greek yogurt--it will lighten the mixture, as well as add a bit of tang.

Traditionally, a fool is made by folding the fruit purée into the whipped cream, but I prefer to keep the components separate for more textural variety. In stemless wine glasses, parfait glasses, or even mason jars, layer first the cream mixture, then the fruit, until you have three layers of each. Finish with a dollop of the cream, a drizzle of the reserved liquid and garnish with chopped pistachios for a little crunch. Truly yummy...enjoy life and savor every bite.

Serves 4:

1 pound rhubarb
zest and juice of 1 navel orange

2 tablespoons finely chopped crystallized ginger

1/2 cup sugar

1 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup confectioner's or superfine sugar

7 ounce container of 2% Greek yogurt

chopped unsalted pistachios for garnish